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Bride of Frankenstein’s Corsage

I could lie to you and say that I made my way through the jungle to see the biggest flower on the planet. I could write that I slept in a hammock fighting off vipers, leeches and hordes of mosquitoes just to see the flower before it wilted into a crumpled mass.

It would have been a great story with further embellishments over the years. And everyone would have believed him, including those in the scientific community.

The above are the trials that many people go through in their quest to see Rafflesia tuan-mudae in other parts of Southeast Asia. However, we drove two hours in a comfortable car, had a leisurely lunch and took a lazy walk in the forest. Then he was back home for a hot shower, dinner at KFC and “Mamma Mia” (again) courtesy of a pirated US$1.38 DVD.

Seeing this very rare flower, which only blooms for three days, was on my bucket list. I knew it was supposed to open in mid-April and then another would follow in October. I figured I could wait until then, not wanting to go on a long trek through the jungle so soon after my leech experiments looking for monkeys.

We drove to the entrance of Gunung Gading National Park, and as I looked out the car window, my heart sank. There was a steep high hill and the park station was located at the base. I shook my head. Not another climb, I thought.

We stopped and checked in at the park office where I was informed that we would need a guide and it would only take 30 minutes to get to the location. When I am told how long it takes to get somewhere in the jungle, I always multiply by three. And we needed a guide? This was going to be the hike from hell!

Reluctantly, I smeared myself with mosquito repellent. My friends put on their boots, tucked their trouser legs into their long socks to avoid leeches, and carried an ocean of water in bottles. I prefer to wear shorts because then I can see the little bloodsuckers and pull them off. They have the amazing ability to cut their way through clothing no matter how protective one is trying to be.

Carrying my camera, I followed, last in line, to the flower. We climbed a very gentle incline, across a creek bed, on a narrow path through the forest and suddenly, about 15 minutes later, we were there.

Three meters high, at the edge of a flattened section of a huge granite boulder, it was the weirdest, strangest thing I had ever seen. It looked like the eye of a monster in a 1950s horror movie. I imagined it was a window into the world of a slimy creature housed inside rock. It was horrible.

It took some time to understand the view and to grasp the image; my mind refusing to believe that he really existed. It was a hideous meat color with five petals falling from the sides. They had off-white wrinkles the size of a dime that looked like blisters from a bad burn. Little carrion flies buzzed around what I would call a mouth. The huge thing measured 75 centimeters in diameter.

I had heard that the flower was supposed to produce a stench that would bring you to your knees and require gas masks. Fortunately, this one had very little odor. Saints be praised.

My science friends spent the next two hours taking photos from every conceivable angle while raving about its beauty. They kept saying how lucky everyone was to see him in such perfect condition. They climbed up the stone wall to examine it more closely, but I was very afraid that it would suddenly come to life and attack. All I could do was stand and watch.

I was looking at the Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world, named after Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore. The locals told me they called him Ibu Bapa, mother and father. They boil parts of it in water and drink it to induce vomiting. Just looking at it can cause this!

Who knew it started as a seed the size of a fine grain of sand and grew like a parasite on the Tetrastigma vitaceae vine, the one I usually always stumble upon. Unreal!

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